View Full Version : E8M tow capacity

07-23-2007, 11:34 PM
Does anyone know what the tow rating/capacity is for a E8M?

RJ Kanary
07-24-2007, 12:31 PM
Not much! Peerless® did not recommend the use of that transaxle for towing or for use with ground engaging equipment. That having been said, I have towed full sized pick up trucks and automobiles up moderate grades that were paved with my first Elec-Trak, an E-10 M. I also learned how to disassemble, repair and reinforce the transaxle shortly after these feats. :(

The axles are supported by bushings, not ball bearings like the 2318 transaxles used in most of the Large Frame tractors.
If your E-8 uses only the front battery box with 12 V batteries, you'll find the towing performance to be insipid at best.

07-25-2007, 01:10 PM
Not much! Peerless® did not recommend the use of that transaxle for towing or for use with ground engaging equipment.

Thats interesting since they offered a 42" snow blade and cart as accessories for it.

RJ Kanary
07-25-2007, 01:30 PM
Just because GE offered it doen't mean that using it is in the best interests of the drivetrain's longevity. :( The axle seals will start leaking oil because the wimpy bushings are worn out. Also, after just looking at the size of wheels and tires on an E-8, would you really want an additional 500 pounds of payload in a cart behind it ?
You don't have much of a footprint to work with.
If your tractor uses the six 6V batteries instead of the three 12V batteries, the chances of having the tail wagging the dog while going down a hill in your back yard, (Like mine, which is 'steep as a horse's nose'.) would be reduced, but still possible. {Ask me how I know. :) }
Be careful. I brought on many intense learning experiences while examining the outer limits of what a Small Frame tractor could, but should not do. :)

07-26-2007, 09:24 AM

How about some details on just how you reinforced the transaxle?

Mike in KY

RJ Kanary
07-26-2007, 12:32 PM
Taking the time to get the endplay on each of the shaft assemblies down to minimum to maintain proper orientation under load,installing a ball bearing down inside the needle bearing on the selector gear shaft and input shaft , machining the case at the input shaft bore to accept a Torrington® thrust bearing between the input gear and the case face.
Also, if the axle tubes have the same diameter all along their length, bushings from the turbine shaft support of a Super Turbine 300 transmission can be installed until the tube is full.NOW you have sufficient support for the axles. :)
It's time consuming and a little frustrating to fabricate the spacers , washers and shims,plus the machining, but the result is a quieter, more durable unit.

07-26-2007, 04:20 PM
I too experienced axle shaft bushing wear, but it's been so long ago that I may not remember all the details. My solution was to machine down the axle shafts in that area and build it up with a hard facing welding rod. I then machined them back down and replaced the bushings with roller bearings.

The only other problem I have with my E10m transaxle involves "gear grinding" when shifting from say D1 to Reverse and back. Long ago I changed out the "A" belt for a "B" belt to reduce slippage when towing more that it was meant to, like my neighbor's Cub Cadet being dragged backwards up the hill on our street.

But I feel it works too well. After depressing the clutch pedal, the belt still drives the input pulley on the transaxle enough to make it difficult to shift without some degree of gear grinding. I considered some sort of brake that would contact the input pulley whenever the clutch pedal was depressed, but haven't come up with a simple idea yet.

Anybody got any suggestions?

Mike in KY

RJ Kanary
07-26-2007, 06:57 PM
I have a solution to your issue that's a bit over the top, and not for the weak of heart.On my E-10 M, I found the clutching and shifting to get around everyday lawn obstacles to be a PITA.
A look at the armature control contactors for a late model Large Frame tractor gave me a fiendish idea.Yup, that was just the thing for quick directional changes while manuevering.It has the added bonus, {Or side effect.} until you get used to it of instant launch if you do not use the clutch, and INSTANT dynamic braking, like PTO accessories. :)
I used a three position toggle switch with a center OFF position to control the contactors, and modified the OEM control scheme slightly so that the PTO contactor would stay energized when the traction motor was not, but opening the seat switch RTN would still kill the PTO and prevent traction motor operation with the seat unoccupied.

07-27-2007, 01:07 AM
Yeah RJ, that does sound a little over the top. If I can't come up with some sort of a simple brake on the input pulley with the clutch pedal depressed, then I might go back to an earlier "plan" of mine to modify my E10m in a similar way as you discussed.

I have a speed control that can be used on a PM field motor, a big-ass reversing contactor out of a Yale fork truck, and an extra foot pedal box off an E20 that would be modified to hold the Curtis 5K pot box. Then I could just put it in D1 and pretty much never shift again. Of course I may have to remove the OEM charger to have enough room to install all this stuff, but I normally use an Lester automatic off-board charger plugged into the PTO receptacle anyway.

Another, and slightly simpler thought was to use the speed control without the reversing feature and rig the foot pedal to slow the drive motor when I pushed "down" on the pedal. With my foot off the pedal, full 36 volts would be delivered to the motor just as in normal operation. Then by de-clutching and slowing/stopping the motor at the same time, I should be able to shift without any grinding.

Being able to slow the tractor down with the speed control would also make maneuvering around obstacles a little easier than slipping the clutch. And not having to keep my foot on the foot pedal during normal mowing is kinda like it is now, with a built-in cruise control. By not mounting the reversing contactor, I could probably mount the speed control on the under hood side of the Upper Control Panel above the B2 battery and leave the on-board charger in place.

But if I shift real fast, it doesn't grind too much and I really don't need another "project" right now. I still need to get a C-185 running with an Alltrax, and then there's the ZTR Grasshopper I want to convert to electric power, and the kitchen remodel, and restify the '54 Studebaker, and the powder coat ovens, and the..... Too many projects, not enough time.

Mike in KY

RJ Kanary
07-27-2007, 11:22 AM
Are the 'whip pins' still present on this tractor ? Their purpose is twofold.One, to keep the belt from flying off when the clutch / brake pedal is depressed and two, to allow enough drag on the belt to stop it's movement in a reasonable amount of time to allow gear selection.Some "adjustment" may be required. :)

07-27-2007, 01:40 PM
:):):) Well I'll be darned, that makes sense. Mine does not have the 'Whip Pins' as shown in Fig. 2-3 on page 2-2 of the Home Owners Service Manual. And besides that, the design of my IDLER ARM does not exactly match the one shown either. So I don't think my E10 ever had them. I've also got a New Idea EGT100 that I was parting out and it too does not have the pins.

My E10m is a Model 26AE10DA with a S/N of AS03 844, possibly a later model that that shown in the manual? Does anyone know the history of factory 'revisions' for the small frame tractors? :confused:

Mine has a solid bar (5/8 x 2 1/2) front axle (which I reinforced early on with two 1/4" wear plates made from 4" heat treated angle iron on either side) as opposed to a square tube front axle I've seen on some. The New Idea also has the solid bar front axle, but with OEM supports on both front and back sides of the axle. If I recall correctly, originally mine had a single "wear/support plate" only on the back side of the front axle. But I made that change soon after I bought the E10 in '73 and the memory from 30+ years ago ain't so great anymore.

As you indicated, the possible function of those 'Whip Pins' just might solve my problem. Now to figure out how to add them easily and see what happens. Do they just barely touch the belt during normal running or only when the clutch is depressed and ya get some slack? :confused:

Thanks RJ, I figured someone could help me out. I'd send pictures if I knew how. Let me have your email address if you'd like to see them off list.

Mike in KY