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  1. Bad Board 
    #1
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    Here is the possible problem. Can this board be fixed? What does this board do? Can I start testing the machine before this is fixed?

    Just curious why the Axle would have been replaced. Would take a lot to bend this wouldn't it? The mower deck did have a nice dent in it though.

    Thanks in advance, Matt!
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  2. E15 issues: 
    #2
    Senior Member behaines's Avatar
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    That is "Card 3". I can't really tell from the picture, but it doesn't look bad.

    Card 3 is a resister card for the field. When you use speeds 1 through 3 the field is at 36V (Same as the battery pack). On 4-7 the field is reduced, making the drive motor spin faster.

    In getting a new tractor going, I would not worry about card 3 for a while. With an E15(Or 12s) if you have an issue it's probably somewhere along wire 13. That seems to be the hell wire on these 2 tractor.

    Common E15 issues:
    Bad/melted rev relay. I've seen these dirty to completely slagged.
    Card 1 issue: something fell out/off/unplugged from the card
    wire from rear battery box is rubbing on drive pulley. (BIG sparks can come from this one )
    fuse holders are dirty and is not getting power through them (I use a drill with some rolled up sand paper to clean the connectors)
    Master disconnect is not conducting power...gets really hot.
    PO has "fixed" something.
     
     

  3. Re: Bad Board 
    #3
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    Thanks for the reply, I have not hooked up batteries yet. When I bought this I was told that it needed some work and noticed the toasted looking resistor on the bottom of this card..

    I just wanted to make sure that this wouldn't be an issue when I hooked up the batteries.
     
     

  4. Re: Bad Board 
    #4
    Senior Member behaines's Avatar
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    Axle: It happened. The cast iron ones could fail if it hit something solid. I've owned both and had neither fail. *shrug* I try not to hit stuff.

    Last resister on card 3. The melty/burny on the last resister...yup, that can happen. If it's totally failed what will happen is when you put it into speed 4, power usage will PEG then the motor will go 1 million MPH. You could jumper it with a small wire and alligator clips to see if that helps. A replacement resister can be had at some radio shacks, or Jim and Harold may have NOS resisters...or whole replacement cards.
    Last edited by behaines; 10-31-2011 at 09:19 AM. Reason: Can't spell. ;)
     
     

  5. Re: Bad Board 
    #5
    Senior Member behaines's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MatimalND View Post
    I was told that it needed some work and noticed the toasted looking resistor on the bottom of this card..

    I just wanted to make sure that this wouldn't be an issue when I hooked up the batteries.
    Yup, card 3 probably won't be the work they were talking about. That's usually one of the last things to get fixed.

    When you start testing your tractor, I would make a little fuse block that holds 2 or 3, 30A fast blow in parallel. The idea being that it's cheaper to replace the fuses then redo wiring that could melt. I made one with a 4X4 piece of 1/4" plywood with 3 20A fuses in parallel. 6ga wires to the battery gets split to 3 12ga wires to each fuse, then back to 6ga going to the master disconnect. I use it on tractors that were said to "worked when parked".


    Also make sure the ribbon resister (dreaded toaster") isn't touching the frame, or any wires. That can cause all sorts of grief the first time you start a new tractor.
     
     

  6. Re: Bad Board 
    #6
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    The control cards were dipped in a conformal coating after being soldered together. It looks to me like the coating has burned off the resistor, but I would bet it still works fine. I have one like that in one of my tractors that works fine. Looks ugly, but works.

    Your REV relay (the one closest to the resistor card) on the other hand, looks like it's been smashed. Inspect the contacts on the end, if they look ok then, you'll need to get the fingers bent back into shape. This is likely a major part of any 'issues' the previous owner was having.

    Use the other relay as a model of how it should look. When it is correct, the top leaf and middle leaf should be in contact (the middle leafs should not be in contact with the lower leafs) when the relay is in its unactuated position. When you pull the leaf down, the middle leafs should be in contact with the lower leafs and not the uppers.

    Contact the Electric Tractor Store, or Harold Zimmerman for a replacement if you decide not to tweek it on your own (or if it's burned up).

    Make sure you fix that before trying to put power to the system.

    Nick
    Last edited by FarmallMan; 10-31-2011 at 09:27 AM.
     
     

  7. Re: Bad Board 
    #7
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    Thanks for the reply guys! I didn't even notice that the "REV Relay" looked bad but now that you brought it up I can see what you mean. I am glad I was patient before I tried anything.

    I will try making that test block with the fuses also.

    Patience, Patience, Patience. Easy to say hard to do .
     
     

  8. Re: Bad Board 
    #8
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    LOL, yes. I will say that despite patience is difficult, it's far less difficult that than tracking down and repairing the aftermath of impatience.
    Do you by chance own a multimeter? If you don't own one, now's a good time to pick one up. It will be a useful thing to own.

    You can check to make sure that the resistor card is functional. The best way to do so is to pull it out, and check for any burned traces. Then, check the various pads that correspond to the 4 different resistor ends. If you're so inclined I could help you work out what the resistance values should be.

    Nick
     
     

  9. Re: Bad Board 
    #9
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    I do in fact own a few of these, I do have some basic electrical skill's. I can even solder wires on a Playstation MB so these should be a little easier to see.

    Yes please let me know how to test this. Do I need to label the wires before I take them off or they labeled in some manner. I am not at home right now so I can't look but am curious.

    What does that "REV Relay" do?

    Matt
     
     

  10. Re: Bad Board 
    #10
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    I'll work out the pad assignments to resistances tonight, in between handing out candy to ghosts and goblins.

    As for the REV relay, it is what switches the polarity of the field current of the motor so that it will run in forward and reverse (when the relay is actuated).

    Switching too fast between forward and reverse can cause a substantial arc between the contacts of this relay. The result is often a severly burned or even completely melted relay. The moral of the story is to get your brakes working well, and don't rely on switching from forward to reverse to stop the tractor.

    Nick
     
     

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