I have a grading blade that came with our E-16 when I bought it about 6 years ago. I'd never thought about using it since I have a 5 foot blade on a 4WD, 25 HP Cub Cadet gas tractor. Since my gas tractor was down for transaxle repair I thought maybe I should get the E-16 fitted as a back-up for smoothing our 500 foot gravel driveway. The blade seems to need some sort of adapter to mount it to the front, where the mower and front winch are now mounted. I tried the blade previously, mounted on the rear bar that normally holds our 30-inch Elec-Trak tiller, using the rear winch to raise and lower it. This worked, sort or, but it's hard to grade while backing up. The tractor came with a mounting plate which seems to fit the blade but not the tractor, neither front nor rear. Does anyone have photos showing how a blade is supposed to mount?
Thread: Mounting a blade on my E-16
Results 1 to 8 of 8
01-07-2014, 11:01 AM
01-07-2014, 12:28 PM
There is a bracket that you need to attach the blade or snow blower. Electric Tractor Store has them on their website for $48 (http://electrictractorstore.com/inde...products_id=76), here's one on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elec-Trak-El...item35c649ffc5
For grading purposes, you can use a steel bar to lock out the spring trip mechanism.
Last edited by FarmallMan; 01-07-2014 at 12:33 PM. Reason: links
01-07-2014, 06:01 PM
It goes on the front. The "tabs" slide into the sides of the front bumper (if you have a U-shaped mower guide bar, it needs to be removed). The two pins that you attach the mower arms to go through the holes in the sides of the mounting bracket. Check out the plow owner's manual here: http://www.myelec-traks.com/GEZ-5081C.pdf
Last edited by FarmallMan; 01-07-2014 at 06:04 PM.
02-23-2014, 09:18 AM
I finally got that blade mounted, along with the chains that I hadn't ever needed previously, and tried some belated snow plowing. I stuck a 3/4" rod through the holes that keep the blade from tilting and tried it in 12-inch snow. I could push a pretty big load before the tires would start spinning. I need to gain weight I guess. The only other problem I had was in adjusting the blade height. I used the suggested threading pattern on the lift strap and the lift motor just couldn't seem to get enough leverage. So I threaded it like I normally do for the mower, over the top roller, in a "double-purchase" pattern. I ran out of strap length so I attached the strap to the 3/4" blade locking bar instead of the proper mounting point further back on the blade. This works, but I think I'll install another strap roller to improve the strap movement. Wish I had had this working back when I had somewhere to GO with all this snow!
02-23-2014, 02:17 PM
- Join Date
- Jul 2009
- Ithaca, NY
Some time ago Steve Shore posted some photos here showing how he was attaching the lift strap to the pivot bolt on the plow. If you search for "pivot" and then find the thread entitled "New dozer blade lift bracket" and scroll down a ways, you'll find the photos.
I've done the same thing, except that I didn't use the loop-down-and-up-again routing for the strap. I just attach the end of the strap to a bracket attached to the big pivot bolt. This gives less resistance (one less "pulley" for the strap to traverse) and it gives better mechanical advantage than using the official strap attachment point that is further to the rear. As a result, the lift motor can lift in small increments, though it lowers in larger increments. (So, to lower it a little bit, I lower it one "notch and the raise it one "notch".) On a gravel driveway it seems important to get the blade as low as possible without moving too much gravel around.
This is on an E15, so it is comparable to the E16. Oh, I also use a weight box in the rear with about 130 pounds of concrete blocks to give added traction (in addition to the 2-link tire chains). During this past snowplowing period, I added 75 pounds of railroad rail, but that was so much rear weight that the front wheels didn't have enough bite and I was hardly able to steer. The driver in this case weighs about 170 pounds.
I've also found it very useful to have the two big springs attached so that the blade can tilt if it catches on something substantial (or if it digs into the ground). Those springs take up the shock of a sudden stop.
Larry Chace, Ithaca, NY I-5 and E15
02-23-2014, 02:52 PM
I found those photos, thanks!
But I think I like your idea of eliminating the extra loop and mounting further forward better, for higher mechanical advantage. As it is the blade lowers VERY slowly. I'll try this and report back. I tried using the blade without the springs locked down and, with this much heavy snow, it would trip pretty quickly just from the load. At this point I may be better off just waiting for the spring thaw!
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