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  1. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #11
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    May 2016
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    Camrose Alberta Canada
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    I had the motor apart to remove the governor switch ( it was broken and I don't use it with the Kelly Controller.) bearings ARE a little rough so I'll replace them. everything else looks really good in there, not bad for over 40 years old! The temp switch is on the brushholder bracket right near the smaller bearing so if it is heating up it could be the problem.
     
     

  2. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #12
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    May 2016
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    60a continuous should be good for a motor with 35A rating you would think! The controller is capable of 100A for up to one minute , It is working good, hillclimbing as good as ever. I don't have the actual specs for the E12 PM motor but in my testing it draws about 6 amps full speed in neutral and the most I could get fleetingly was about 80 amps almost stalled. People kept telling me I needed a honking big 300a or 400A controller! I think they believe the E12 has a 12 hp motor! ( actually 1.5 HP)
     
     

  3. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #13
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    May 2016
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    Camrose Alberta Canada
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    I was tempted to mount the POT and control it with a foot pedal. It would be convenient and easy to do but I wanted to be sure the controller was returned to neutral before it was shifted into reverse (or forward) AND I didn't want to have to hold my foot down to drive the tractor (even though most of them are that way now) also I wanted it to look like original. That is why I put so much work into modifying the original controller. Has anyone modified and elec-track into going the other way and mounting the mower deck onto the other end? I have another one here and I'm tempted to try it! It would be much better for mowing grass if the steering wheels were on the back. (like a Kubota "F" series)
     
     

  4. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #14
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    Jan 2005
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    Schenectady, NY, USA
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    I think the bearings might just be your issue. I put sealed bearings in all the motors I rebuild, I think they're worth the extra few dollars. You should need a 6203 for the commutator end and a 6205 for the drive end. Have you also checked how freely the trans input spins, and that the brake isn't hanging up?

    There are two variations of the E12 motor. One is the permanent magnet version you have, and the other is a sep-ex motor that is much more like the E15 and E20 drive motors. I think the higher current drives are still overkill for the sep-ex motors, but the sep-ex E12 motor is probably what most people are envisioning, since they are more common than the PM motors.

    Would you be willing to share a photo or two of your speed controller mods? That seems to be one of the places where people tend to struggle to find an elegant solution.

    Nick
     
     

  5. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #15
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    May 2016
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    Camrose Alberta Canada
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    I'm going to further rewire it to eliminate the RTN solenoid. It is kind of a funky thing anyway and IMO the less switches the better. It would have been easier if GE had put the ignition switch in the positive side rather than the negative but I can easily change that! The only good thing about retaining the RTN relay is that the controller gets power directly through the relay rather than through the safety switches all in series. The controller doesn't draw much power so it will likely be OK . My varister is in poor condition but I don't think I need it now anyway because the relays are not being switched under load like they were in the original configuration.
     
     

  6. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #16
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    Camrose Alberta Canada
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    Yes, I'll get some pictures. I have to take it apart again anyway to install a small spring. I couldn't find one around my place so I'm using a rubber band right now to return the POT to neutral. The Kelly controller is quite small and is very easy to wire up once you get figured out what you need to do.
     
     

  7. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #17
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    May 2016
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    Camrose Alberta Canada
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    I don't have a motor for my other E12 but I have a tiller I'm not using. I'm tempted to use the tiller motor on it but I'll need the 200A controller. People say you cannot use the tiller motor but the field and armature windings are separately accessible outside the motor so I don't see why it won't work! It would be a beast with that 2.5 HP motor!.If I reconfigure the tractor to go the other way there would be no motivation to keep anything original so I'd make a foot controller for it.
     
     

  8. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #18
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    Camrose Alberta Canada
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    The best foot control would be two pedals one forward one reverse. You really need to configure the control so it must return to neutral before reversing direction! If you don't you get mega, controller burning amps! A two pedal controller would be quite easy to fabricate. both pedals actuate the POT but the reverse pedal would have a microswitch to change direction.
     
     

  9. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #19
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    May 2016
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    Camrose Alberta Canada
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    My lofty goal is to install solar panels to charge the tractor batteries. (not on the tractor) and to convert it to Lithium Iron (lifepo4) batteries when to price comes down! Hopefully I can get a few more years out of the Lead-acid clunkers
     
     

  10. Re: Kelly Controller 
    #20
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    On the topic of using a snow blower/tiller motor, you may find that it is more trouble than it's worth. Here's some recommended reading on the topic: http://www.elec-trak.com/forum/showt...as-Drive-Motor

    Nick
     
     

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