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  1. Re: A slowly dying mower deck 
    #11
    Any idea where to get the reinforcing rings, or how much $$? I checked with Harold Z. but the used rings he has are apparently for reinforcing underneath the deck, not for the motor flanges. I checked locally but the only thing close to the right size was made for reinforcing the pipe under a toilet and the diameter is too large.
     
     

  2. Re: A slowly dying mower deck 
    #12
    I ended up removing the "gator" blades and found they had 3 stacked washers inside to shim them to the right diameter for the mounting bolts. Replacing them with the old blades from my dying deck solved all of the vibration problems. The deck sounds great! Still haven't found those motor reinforcing rings you mentioned, Nick. Now I just need to mount a rubber skirt at the rear (it's a rear discharge deck). I see that they are available for $12, but I can cut three from an $8 fiber-reinforced rubber welcome mat. Looking forward to mowing!
     
     

  3. Re: A slowly dying mower deck 
    #13
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Schenectady, NY, USA
    Posts
    1,123
    Sorry about the delay in responding, the rings I was referring to are the ones used on the underside. They are pretty similar to the original flanges, but are slit to allow easy installation. You could actually cut them again so that they are two pieces, rather than one, and use them on top of the existing bracket. Another option is to find a metal fab shop with a CNC plasma cutter that can make you a few out of 1/8 or 3/16 plate.

    Glad to hear that stock blades fixed your vibration issues.

    Nick
     
     

  4. Re: A slowly dying mower deck 
    #14
    Thanks for that!
    My wife came up with an idea to use some stainless steel, toilet base-pipe reinforcing flanges we bought locally, bolting those down onto the deck. But they were about 5.1" inside diameter and the motor bases are around 4.7" outside diameter. Flattening the flange's inner edge curve with a hammer got them down to 4.95" inside. She suggested using galvanized angle brackets and some big stainless hose clamps to connect the motors and flanges but the brackets were too thin. So I measured some galvanized angle iron I had lying around and the thickness turned out to be perfect to take up the space. It's an adaptation of the idea G.E. had with their anti-vibration "motor clamp kit" seen at http://www.myelec-traks.com/mowerclampkit.pdf . I haven't replaced the existing cobbled-together clamps and pipe fittings yet but I did mount a welcome-mat skirt at the rear and mower with the unit today. What a difference from the dying unit! Much more uniform and plenty of power to get through the thick stuff. I'll post photos of the motor reinforcements when I finish them.
     
     

  5. Re: A slowly dying mower deck 
    #15
    I finally got around to replacing the cobbled-together motor mounts from the previous owner of the mower deck. You can see from the overall deck photo that there are currently three different mountings. The right motor (seen from the front) has the original mounting bolts and no broken motor flange, although I'm going to reinforce it next. The middle motor, with broken flanges, has the weird bolt and pipe cap mounting along with an added anti-vibration spring. All of that will get removed and replaced to look like the left motor. It uses a stainless steel, toilet base reinforcing flange with its inner folded edge hammered flat to get the right inside diameter. Then I used some wind-tower steel and my cut-off saw, with a cobalt blade, to cut four 3/4" wide L-brackets for each motor. I took off the cap and disconnected the cord to the left motor, then slipped the stainless ring over the motor and four of the L-brackets, locating each one between the existing mounting bolts. Then I hammered the rind down over the L-brackets until the ring was flat on the deck. I slipped a 6" stainless pipe clamp over the L-brackets and tightened them down to securely hold the motor. Using 1/4" by 1.5" stainless bolts, stainless fender washers, and stainless nyloc nuts, I drilled 1/4" holes through each ring, bracket, and the deck and bolted the whole thing down snugly. It's a lot firmer than the middle motor, and I'm sure it will last longer than the flanges on the unbroken right motor since the motor is now held both at a point higher than the original flange and at its base.
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  6. Re: A slowly dying mower deck 
    #16
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Delaware, USA
    Posts
    24
    According to the motor table on the Elec Trak Wikipedia entry, the tiller motor is 2.5 HP, 66 Amps, and 3100 RPM.

    Tim M
    You can thank Walt Konstanty and the METI guys for the motor table in Wikipedia. If anyone has any corrections or additions, feel free to add them, or PM me if you aren't comfortable modifying Wikipedia directly.
    Last edited by medievalist; 10-03-2016 at 11:46 AM.
     
     

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