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  1. new ride lots of questions 
    #1
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    Aug 2016
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    Glastonbury, CT
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    found my E12 last week, had new batteries put in this week, found you guys tonite. it ran for a few minutes until I hit a bump and it cut out. I shifted the controller back to neutral and then back into forward and was fine until the next bump and then it cut out. then it just clicked every time I put it in forward. It is going in reverse fine. And it will run the motor in forward when the gearbox is in neutral. By reading a few old posts i will take a guess at a relay?

    Second question for my new found friends! What the smaller plug next to the attachment plug?

    DGC
     
     

  2. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #2
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    Congrats on your "new" machine!

    To help you troubleshoot the machine, it would be helpful to know what submodel of E12 you have. Under the hood opposite the side with the plug sockets, there is a model and serial number tag. What is the model number?

    Also, what does the power usage gauge do when you attempt to go forward? I.E., does it show some deflection, full deflection, or no movement?

    The small socket is for various accessories GE sold with the tractors. It's 36 volt.

    Nick
     
     

  3. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #3
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    Thanx for the reply
    The model #is 26AE12JA
    For the quick ride I initially took the gauge showed moderate movement under the load of the two small hills I went over. What was interesting was each time it cut out the cut out came on quicker and quicker until it wouldnt move at all forward. The same thing happened in reverse. I believe now the gauge show only slight movement. It will still activate the motor when the gearbox is in neutral. When I listen i believe I hear and imediate click following the initial start.
     
     

  4. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #4
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    My latest discovery is the brakes are electric. how do these actuate? Also, I thought i read in past forums that there is a site of manuals. I am not finding it if it is out there. thanx for any replys.
    DGC
     
     

  5. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #5
    I believe the manual site you are referring to is myelec-traks.com/Publications.html

    Unless the previous owner made a modification, the brakes are mechanical. The brake pedal does actuate a switch in order to power down the motor when the brakes are fully applied (similar to the clutching action of the brake pedal an many ICE mowers). However, there should also be a rod running from the brake pedal to the brake mechanism on the left side of the transaxle. The linkage is on the inside of the "frame rail", not under the foot board, so you may have to crawl under the tractor to see it.
    The easiest way to see the brake mechanism is to remove the left rear tire. Remember, with batteries installed, the mower weighs close to 1000 lbs. Use proper jacks and jack stands for safety.

    Tim M
     
     

  6. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #6
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    The Homeowner's Service Manual (HSM) is available through this site also, and I think is a better scan. Here's a link on where to find it: http://www.elec-trak.com/forum/showt...Service-Manual There is a second manual that is more technically oriented and doesn't really offer much explanation, but here's a link to it as well: http://www.elec-trak.com/forum/showt...10-E12-E15-E20

    All Elec-Traks were made with mechanical brakes, but as Tim mentioned there is an electrical switch designed to stop the drive motor when the brakes have been actuated. Elec-Traks, by the way, are well known for having marginal brakes.

    There are a couple of different things that could be causing your intermittent drive. If the power usage gauge works (sounds like it does), and doesn't show very high power usage when trying to start the drive motor running, the field circuits are probably fine.

    The next possibilities are the RTN relay(s), or seat switch. If you're on the seat and turn on the PTO switch, do you hear a pronounced click from within the panel (more than just the switch)? If so, the seat switch is fine. Get a 1/4" nut driver (or a multi-tipped screw driver without any bit installed) and remove the two screws holding the panel with the fuse block attached to it under the hood. It should fold down toward the front of the tractor, and will have some relays and other electronics mounted to it. What is the behavior of the relays when you're attempting to run the motor (try both directions)? There are a couple of other things to check, but let's start here.

    Do you own a multimeter? If not, this is a good time to head out to a hardware/home improvement store and pick one up.

    Nick :cool:
     
     

  7. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #7
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    Thanx again
    I think I got really lucky and looked at the safety switch under the seat and found it to be the problem. I also looked from the (other) side and saw the mechanicals to the brakes. I put two washers in between what I will call the cam that actuates the compression on the disc and have a sound brake. All systems go! Now, back to farming.
    A question for those who have a front mower deck. Can u knock back the high grass with the deck in the up position? Also, how does the tractor handle with the weight hanging off the front.
    Dgc
     
     

  8. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #8
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you're back to running again!

    I know people have used the deck in the manner you described. It wasn't built for it, but it does work. Over the long term, it may cause issues with stress cracking on the steel shell. I don't know that I would recommend mowing acres and acres like that every week, but on occasion really shouldn't hurt anything.

    Nick
     
     

  9. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #9
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    I have happily got to the end of my charge in the batteries. I am now interested in a little knowledge on my charging system. The timer doesnt work. I have new batteries. how long does it normally take to charge and how do I know when they r at peak without over charging?
    Thanx again
    DGC
     
     

  10. Re: new ride lots of questions 
    #10
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    I would recommend either fixing or replacing your timer. There are two wires that run the motor in the timer, make sure both are connected. If they are, and the timer isn't functioning, it's probably shot. Both of the Elec-Trak suppliers carry replacements.

    The Homeowner's Service Manual has a section on the charger, which specifies cycle time. I believe it's in the neighborhood of 12-15 hours for new batteries that are (nearly) fully discharged.

    The answer to the question of how to know when they're charged is a good one. You should buy yourself a battery hydrometer from an autoparts store or even Amazon. Using a hydrometer is the only real way to tell what your batteries' state of charge is. Voltage is an indicator, but varies substantially with temperature and can't be counted on to be linear with respect to depth of discharge. With some practice you'll be able to guestimate how much charge time is required based on how much work you did with the machine.

    Nick
     
     

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