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  1. E8M Electrical Testing 
    #1
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    Sep 2016
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    Kansas City, MO
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    I have chased down and labeled all the wires for my E8M and have removed the charging system, as I will be using a separate smart charger. My question is, how do I test the various components of the system, as shown to be sure they still work? I also don't know what to set my multi meter on to test these components properly. Any help would be great!!!


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  2. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #2
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    Oct 2009
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    Delaware, USA
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    Looking at your pictures, you have a lot of corrosion to clean up. The rust is non-conductive.

    To test a switch or relay, use the Ohms setting on your multimeter and look for zero ohms on the closed contacts and switches, infinite resistance on the open ones. Your wiring diagram will show you all the values for any resistors. Diodes should conduct in one direction, and not in the other - so if they show near-zero resistance when the red probe of your meter is on the left, they should show infinite resistance when you switch probes so that the red is on the right.

    Personally, if I had the wiring harness loose on the bench like that, I'd recreate an exact duplicate using new wire and new components. It might be less work than troubleshooting the old one, it would certainly be less work than polishing off all that rust and corrosion, and in the end I'd have all shiny new wiring instead of 40 year old wiring. If do you replace everything, make sure you use the same size, color and type of wire as the original and get a set of wire number markers so you can mark them with the original numbers, that way the original service manual is still correct.

    I helped a buddy replace an original 1970 relay last week; we could have rebuilt it, but we chose to install an exact duplicate instead. That way we won't have to work on it again until 2060 or thereabouts!
     
     

  3. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #3
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    Sep 2016
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    Kansas City, MO
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    Thank you for the response, I will look into replacing, but as I have the time I might try and clean up and investigate what works. Do you know if there is anything that needs to be done to the system if I remove the charger wires from the setup? I removed wire 30 and 1041 (Circled in the pic), but feel like something needs to be on the other side of CB2??
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  4. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #4
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    Sep 2016
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    Kansas City, MO
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    I have cleaned up all the connections and have the components RUNNING!!! BUT...there are some oddities I cannot account for, When I press down on the seat switch the blade motors engage, and nothing else. but if I engage the clutch switch before pressing the seat switch the blade motors will not engage. The PTO switch on the console does nothing. Also for the drive motor, I have to touch wire 3 to the negative side and it will run, if I have it plugged into the blade terminal where it is supposed to be, nothing happens, also the 12 wire that connects to the drive motor does nothing plugged into its correct spot. I can post a video if that would help, I have gone over the wiring diagram over and over, and cannot find an issue...I have removed the charger. Any help is appreciated!!!
     
     

  5. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #5
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    Schenectady, NY, USA
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    You can clean everything up pretty well when it's on the bench like that. I've had pretty good luck cleaning the corrosion off of the wire terminals with a Dremel wire brush. The black cylinder "L" contactor is sealed, and non-serviceable. It can be tested by applying 36 volts across the small terminals, and measuring the resistance across the big terminals. The resistance should be low. The PTO contactor, to a certain extent, is serviceable because it is an open frame unit.

    It's hard to tell, but that diode assembly looks a little funky. If you test the diode, it should have near zero resistance in one direction and high resistance in the other. This testing should be done with one or both sides of the assembly disconnected from the other wiring.

    In an E8, the circuit breaker unit only serves to protect the charger circuitry from over-currents. You can wire in your new non-OEM charger through this circuit breaker, and this be a good thing to do. To do so, connect the NEGATIVE side of the charger to the stud where wire 30 used to connect. Connect the POSITIVE terminal of the charger to the connection where wire 1041 used to connect. If you opt not to wire your charger this way, then nothing would connect to the wire 30 side of the CB. Just run the lock washer and nut down tight on the terminal for possible future use. The other side of the CB serves as a junction point for wires 8048 and 8058, so the breaker really needs to remain in place.

    Nick
     
     

  6. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #6
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    I started my reply before your last post, so I am just seeing it now. I will have to take some time and read through it carefully. A video wouldn't hurt, if you feel so inclined.

    Nick
     
     

  7. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #7
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    Here is a video of the issue...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaZ-Q-9k9xA
     
     

  8. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #8
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    I'm taking a look at things and thinking that deck motors running without any input from the switch is due to wires being placed in the wrong spot on the switch. Do you have a copy of the Homeowner's Service Manual? If not, you should download it from here: http://www.elec-trak.com/forum/showt...Service-Manual I will be referring to it in my replies. Page 2-27 has the details of how the wires should be connected to the switch. It looks like you have one extra terminal on your switch than some do. The internals of the switch are such that one terminal is a common and should be in the middle of the switch (connect wire 6 to this one). Switching into the maintained position will connect the common to one other terminal - this should be kiddie-corner to the common. Connect wire 11 to the maintained terminal. Pushing the switch into the momentary position should connect one additional terminal to the common - this should be directly opposite the common switch. Wire 5-00 connects to this one.

    Looking at the video, I THINK what you need to do is more wire 5-00 next to wire 11. With the seat switch in, and from the pto switch in the "off" position, you should have to push the lever up into the momentary position to start the blades. Then, allowing it to release back into the 'run' position should allow the deck to run. Releasing the seat switch should stop the deck and pushing it back in shouldn't restart the deck motors. Only pushing the switch into the momentary "start" position should restart them. If it still doesn't work right, then flip sides (i.e., put wire 5-00 where wire 11 is, and switch wire 6 to the unused terminal next to it).

    Let's start there and I'll take a little more look at your traction motor issues. Just to be clear, what are you touching wire 3 to in the video?

    Nick
     
     

  9. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #9
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    Kansas City, MO
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    I am touching it to the Negative on the Drive motor, but I found out today that if I touch wire 3 to any bare metal it will engage the drive motor. I will be trying your advice in the next couple of days and reply with results. THANK YOU so much for the help!!
     
     

  10. Re: E8M Electrical Testing 
    #10
    Senior Member FarmallMan's Avatar
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    Sure, happy to help. If you're connecting wire 3 to the negative side of the drive motor, you are bypassing the seat switch. The motor will always run in this configuration. If you connect it to the proper terminal on the motor (the internal circuit breaker), it will have to run through the seat switch. The seat switch should then kill the motor. I believe that if wire 3 is connected where it is supposed to be, then holding the clutch switch in the spring loaded position with the seat switch released should kill the motor. Pressing only the seat switch should not restart the drive motor. Only pressing the seat switch in while releasing the clutch switch should restart the motor.

    I think it's not far from being squared away.

    Nick
     
     

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