Rebuild Your Relays!! - Elec-Trak Owners Club

Billy M · 03-04-2010, 05:44 PM

First off...kudos to mfrerking for finding these. These were shown in a post by behaines regarding some relay issues he was having.

http://www.surplussales.com/Relays/REContOF-2.html Part Number (KO) 9002C24A

I just rebuilt 3 old relays I had from using the "fingers" off these new relays. Judging by the boxes, these may be NOS relays someone found (not for ET's). The boxes look pretty old.

My dad told me he used to repair/rebuild the ET relays when he worked on them in the 70's & 80's. Mfrerking posted these and I figured I would give it a shot. They worked perfectly. Easy to change with a semi-steady hand and a nice pair of mini needle nose pliers.

The new relays have a 24V coil on them. That is the only difference. The new fingers have the same rating as the old. The plates on the new and old relays are stamped...

10A 1/4 HP 115 VAC

Installation was easy. It's as simple as removing the clip holding the "fingers" on, transplanting the "fingers" to your old coil, and reinstalling the clip. Make sure you put the small square retainer back on the posts (that stick out under the clip) before reinstalling the clip. Also...make sure the legs of the clip that provide spring pressure (to the post that are under the clip) are properly seated. One more thing...if you have a relay as nasty as the one I have in the pic, a Dremel with a wire wheel does wonders!

I ordered 3 relays to try it. I just ordered some more for my "stock". I also have a few more old coils I can rebuild. Dad had them in his old ET toolbox. I have attached some pics to show the results. Feel free to contact me if anyone has any questions. Enjoy!!

Billy

mfrerking · 03-04-2010, 07:11 PM

Billy,

Thanks for the post. I received three of them yesterday myself. Like you, I found them to be almost the exact same relay. The main difference was the 24 volt coil.

I haven't studied the wiring yet, but using an inline resistor might could be used to reduce the voltage to the coil.

For seven bucks each plus shipping, they are good to have for back up parts.

Billy M · 03-04-2010, 07:46 PM

Funny...using a resistor on the 24V coil did cross my mind. It is so easy to change the "fingers", I didn't bother toying with the resistors. Then again, I had a bunch of 36V coils sitting in my toolbox also!

robert maxwell · 03-04-2010, 08:25 PM

Hi,

Thanks for the info. Will order and give them a try.

RM

Billy M · 03-05-2010, 01:55 PM

What did you guys do?? Buy up all the relays??

I just got an email from Surplus Sales Of Nebraska. They only had one of those relays left. Oh well...I got a few new relays out of it! Hopefully, some of you guys did too.

Billy M · 03-05-2010, 02:46 PM

Update...I just found some more of those relays from another company. I confirmed they are NOS. Better price also...$3.95!!

http://www.hosfelt.com/en-us/dept_114.html

FYI...I couldn't order online for some reason. I ended up calling to place my order. Click the "Home" tab on the site to get the contact info to order.

Enjoy!

Indiana_Steve · 04-03-2010, 04:07 PM

I bought some too...great deal! I had no problem ordering on line.

RedLance · 04-30-2010, 10:43 PM

If your old relays are not rebuildable, I found these relays: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=electric

Actual 36 volters...3 pole, double through. I have one if you'd like better pictures, I can take some.

If you take them out of the base they come with, you can plug the original wires straight into them...You're on your own for mounting them though.

They also have the micro switches for the speed control lever: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.a...tname=electric

Jerry71 · 05-01-2010, 10:12 PM

Red, check them out real good, I bought several last fall and burnt 3 of them up trying to run them a 36vdc, ended with only 2 good ones

Jerry NW Ohio

EtnaInst · 05-02-2010, 08:39 AM

It is possible that those relays have a diode across the coil (to suppress the inductive kickback when the coil is turned off). If so, you need to be sure that the coil connections are of the correct polarity, so that the more positive side goes to the banded end of the diode. Alternatively, you can remove the diode. If you connect the more negative side to the banded end of the diode, then you'll have a short circuit (for a short amount of time!).

Larry Chace, Etna Instruments